• Gould's.table

    Gould’s, the iconic sugarshack restaurant on Route 2 in Shelburne, has closed.  Gould’s has served tourists and locals alike since 1960 and will be sorely missed.  

    Davenport1                                       Davenport Maple Farm Sugar Restaurant

    But off Route 2 at 111 Tower Rd. in Shelburne is Davenport Maple Farm with a restaurant, sales area and evaporator to view.  The restaurant is opens in the sugar season March to mid-April, 8:00-3:00. Their pancakes and other syrup delivery items are quite straightforward and include gluten-free options, but their “Finnish” pancakes are unusual and delicious! Diners are served a 2 oz. bottle of maple syrup to use with their breakfast and take home as a souvenir. Davenportpails                                      Sap buckets hang near Davenport’s evaporator.

    Red BucketsThe Red Bucket Sugar Shack is gone.      

    Sadly, this delightful sugar shack has closed its doors for good, but I leave the pictures up in memory of it.  Worthington in western Massachusetts is far off the beaten trail from Charlemont, but when the Red Bucket Sugar Shack topped a 2013 Fox News survey of the ten best sugar shack restaurants in the U.S., we had to go.  RBevaporator

    We were happy to report that Fox News has much better taste in restaurants than in politics!

     

    Red Bucket sales
    The sales area fills with steam from the evaporator (above).

    Worthington boasts two other sugar restaurants, both open weekends in the foliage season as well as the sugar season. Just off 112, Windy Hill Farm claims to be the oldest sugar shack restaurant in Massachusetts and is certainly the most rustic.  If you need cream for your coffee, an open pint will appear on the table, family members grab breakfast among the guests, and if you need to use the facilities, a genuine outhouse awaits you. (Update 2026: the outhouse is closed, replaced by a porta-potty; and individual creams grace each of [only] four tables.  A young woman, who was probably in kindergarten when we last visited, is the restaurant’s gracious hostess.)

    WindyHillext
    Windy Hill Farm: the oldest sugarshack restaurant in Massachusetts

    But the food is still plentiful and good: feather-light French toast, waffles, or a variety gigantic pancakes—apple, pumpkin, chocolate chip, blueberry—that you can mix and match, and the restaurant has a loyal following and a longer season than most.  It’s open from 8-2 in a sugar season that lasts from late February until the end of April and re-opens in foliage season.

    WindyHillint
    Inside Windy Hill

    South of Windy Hill, right on 112, the High Hopes Farm sugar restaurant, open from 7-2,  serves an all-you-can-eat buffet…

    HiHopes1

    Satisfied customers at High Hopes Farm

    …with pancakes, French toast, scrambled eggs, home fries, bacon, sausage, ham, and a variety of beverages including tea, juice, and coffee.  A pitcher of pure maple syrup sits on every table, and, if you sit near the window, you’ll look down on a beautiful gorge, carved out by the Little River.

    HiHopesldsp

    The Little River runs behind High Hopes sugar restaurant.

     In the fall, High Hopes turns its evaporator room into a haunted house and serves the same plentiful buffet.

     A number of sugarshack restaurants serve the I-91/Northampton area. Steve’s Sugar Shack at 35 North Road in Westhampton is open weekends from late February through mid-April from 7-1. The menu is limited, but the French toast is delicious and the blueberry pancakes look great. Steve’s employs an efficient system for ordering your meal. Guests are seated at long tables near or below the evaporator. On Sundays, a neighbor brings his oxen, who, ostensibly, pull a sled outfitted with a tank to gather sap from buckets in the woods. (When we were there, however, the oxen mainly greeted visitors, while their owner explained how he used them for his logging business as an environmentally friendly alternative to a truck.)   OxenSteve'sSS

    Oxen greet visitors and (maybe) help with sugaring at Steve’s Sugar Shack in Westhampton. 

    Williams Farm Sugarhouse, located on Routes 5 & 10 just south of Historic Deerfield, is open daily mid-February to mid-April and serves a variety of delicious pancakes, waffles, French toast and various sides, including maple cream doughnuts.

    Stirring boilThe Williams family began sugaring on Mt. Toby in Sunderland in the 1850’s and opened their more conveniently located sugarhouse in Deerfield in 1994. Patrons order at the counter and can visit the evaporator in the next room while they wait for their food.

     

     

    A Williams family member stirs the boiling sap.  A sign from the original Mt. Toby Sugarhouse sits against the wall.

     

     

     

    The North Hadley Sugar Shack is conveniently located on Route 47 three miles north of Route 9 for those who want to visit the Amherst area.

    NHadleySS They serve the standard French toast, waffles, and pancakes, with eggs if you want them and ice cream, fruit and whipped cream toppings also an option.  Breakfast is served every day in sugar season (mid-February to mid-April) from 7:00-2:00.  Compared to the more out-of-the-way sugar restaurants, service here is very fast.  Visitors can view the evaporator, which sits right outside the dining room, and a well-stocked farm store is open for most of the year.  HadleySS

     

     

     

    Tending the evaporator at the North Hadley Sugar Shack

     

     

     

     

    StrawbaleCafe

    The Strawbale Cafe at Hanging Mountain Farm at 188 North St. in Westhampton is open year round for breakfast every Saturday and Sunday from 9-2 except in January.  The cafe has a full breakfast menu, including pancakes with a wide variety of add-ins, during most of the year but is more limited in sugar season because of the large crowds.  The menu is simplified at that time and pancakes are limited to chocolate chip and blueberry, but, of course, the sugar house is working and can be visited.  Seasonal vegetables, like asparagus, are added to the menu as they become available.  The cafe is so named because it is made from bales of straw although these are covered by wood and stucco, so you won’t see any straw when you visit. SBCsugarhouse

     

     

     

     

     

    In the town of Hancock, almost on the New York border, Ioka Valley Farm offers four-season family entertainment, not least of which is its maple breakfasts, served from mid-February to early April on weekends 8-3.

    Ioka Farm.ext

    Once a dairy farm, Ioka offers an array of pancakes and French toast, including a delicious stuffed French toast, in the former calf barn, aptly named the Calf-A.

     

    Ioka Farm Int

    Visitors can observe an enormous high tech evaporator and purchase all grades of maple syrup as well as maple cream, maple sugar, maple cotton candy, cider doughnuts and other farm produce. Ioka’s four-season entertainment includes a petting zoo and play with wooden bovines in the summer and fall.

    Ioka.Lamas
    Ioka.Cows2a

  • Max with Sharpener1-2

    Max was like a delicate flower that faded too soon.  He had a water fetish and loved to drink from a running tap, from an unguarded cup or glass or even a watering can; he tracked kitty litter into the bathtub as he examined the droplets that gathered around the drain.  A mischief-maker, he chewed on paper documents and tipped over waste baskets to get attention.

    Max7_edited-1

    Max drinking

    He had a purr like the running engine of a Mac truck and engaged it incessantly, signaling hunger, affection, or pure joy.  He slept on our bed by my feet or cuddled up with companion Rocky for an afternoon snooze. Sleeping together Neither as athletic nor brave as Rocky, he was nevertheless unafraid of Pepper, our well-meaning but over-active mini-Aussie, whom Rocky loathes.  Max was the peace-maker and go-between.

    Max & Pepper

    Cat detective1
    Christmas 2021

    Maxwashing


     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Sweet, petite, and beautiful, he stole our hearts and has not returned them.

    Maxintunnel"Good night, sweet prince; And flights of angels sing thee to thy rest."

     

     

  • Mom10b

    Gertrude Erlich was born in Rotterdam, New York, not long after her father, Sam Erlich, had immigrated from Poland, possibly at the behest of his sister Betsy and her husband Jake Coplon.  The Coplons settled in Schenectady in upstate New York, where they opened a successful children’s clothing store.  Sam, who immigrated with his second wife and three children from his first marriage, opened his own store in Rotterdam and fathered five more children, including Gertrude, but found the community unsatisfactory, due to either anti-Semitism or a lack of Jewish neighbors or both and relocated the family to Brooklyn.

    Mom & Her Dad'27a

    Gertrude and Sam, 1927

    He died soon after, and his widow relocated again, this time to the Jewish enclave in Manhattan’s lower East Side.  A teenager by now, Gertrude joined the Hebrew Educational Society (H.E.S. or the Edgies) where she began keeping company with Abe Sternbach, six years her senior.

    His mother’s sole support and suffering from poor eyesight, Abe, a commercial artist, managed to stay out of World War II until 1944, when he was drafted and shipped to the Philippines to paint signs for the Army.  Gertrude met him upon his discharge in North Carolina and suggested it was high time they got married.  They settled in a basement apartment in the Bronx, and, in 1949, Steven, their only child, was born.

    Like many couples after World War II and with the help of government-subsidized housing, the Sternbachs merged into the middle class.  They moved to Brooklyn; Abe continued working as a commercial artist, while Gertrude raised Steven and eventually worked part-time for the Brooklyn Public Library.

    Mom and Steve '54.1Gertrude and Steve, Greenwich Village Art Fair, 1954

    She never lost touch with her Coplon relatives, and, once they acquired a car, the family made frequent trips to Schenectady.  Abe retired early, and the couple rediscovered the Edgies, joining a Brookline branch of H.E.S.

    For Jews everywhere, but especially for those whose families had immigrated to America in the last decade before the U.S. slammed its borders shut in 1924, the grim news of the Holocaust evoked the specter of “there but for the grace of God, go I.”  For that generation, the founding of Israel came as a great triumph and a great relief.  In the late 1970s, Gertrude fulfilled a decades-old dream of visiting the Jewish state.

    Mom@1940 WF1aGertrude at the New York World's Fair, 1940

     

        

  • Depression Glass_edited-1                                                Green Depression Glass (photograph: Steven Sternbach)

    I first encountered the fashion for “vintage Pyrex” a decade ago when I discovered that the mother of a Japanese student I was tutoring shopped for it regularly in antique and second hand stores, intending to ship it back to Japan where it sold for a bundle.  Recently I came across an article citing pieces that sell for hundreds even thousands of dollars in this country.  I gag.  This pale milky glass kitchenware with insipid floral designs is the stuff your mother gave you when you got your first apartment.  It goes with olive stoves and yellow refrigerators.  Who wants to remember that unfortunate period of kitchen design?  A lot of people, apparently.

    I am reminded of the first time I came across Depression glass in my late teens.  I was fascinated by the colors.  My mother sniffed, “Oh, Depression glass.”  People couldn’t afford quality glass in the 1930s, so manufacturers colored the glass to cover up its imperfections.  My mom didn’t find the Depression and its necessities any more nostalgic than I find the tastes of the 1970s.  Unlike Pyrex, you can’t apply heat to Depression glass, but I still treasure the large emerald green salt and pepper shakers, the pale green reamer and the four-cup measuring cup that I have acquired over the years from flea markets and antique stores, and I use all of them, careful never to put hot water in the measuring cup.  Nostalgia is clearly in the eyes of the nostalgic. 

     

       

  • Trump tried to wreck the Post Office.  An army of postal workers called it out and made sure every mail-in ballot was delivered.  Trump trash-talked the election.  Over one hundred and fifty million people voted anyway.  Trump tried to stop the vote count.  Thousands of poll workers counted and counted and counted.  Lies went to court, and judges sent them packing.  Officials in multiple states suffered harassment and death threats.  They stuck to the truth.  A mob attacked and ransacked the Capitol.  Our senators and representatives crawled out from underneath desks and tables and certified the election by 4 AM the next morning.  When Lady Gaga sang the national anthem at Joe Biden's inauguration, it occurred to me that it had been written in 1814, the last time the Capitol had been attacked.  Now as then “our flag was still there.”  What can we say to those who stood up to sabotage, propaganda, lies, and attacks, verbal and physical?  That thanks to them, we are truly what we've so often claimed to be: “the land of the free and the home of the brave.”

     

     

  • Bunny

    In his children’s book, A Home Run for Bunny, Western Mass author Robert Andersen tells the story of local heroes Ernest “Bunny” Taliaferro and Tony King, high school athletes from Springfield, MA. Taliaferro, an immensely gifted African-American athlete, and King, captain of their American Legion summer baseball team, were set to compete in a regional championship. The year was 1934, the region was the entire Atlantic seaboard, and the playoffs were held in Gastonia, North Carolina. A Gastonia band greeting the boys, none of whom had otherwise travelled further than Vermont, stopped dead when Bunny emerged from the train, and a confrontation with Southern apartheid began. Bunny, so nicknamed because of his jackrabbit running speeds, was forced to register as his coach’s valet and sleep on a cot rather than a bed in the team’s North Carolina hotel. His demonstrated prowess on the field during practice further enraged the local community, and the boys endured not only cat calls and an avalanche of projectiles but threats of violence, purportedly from the Ku Klux Klan. When teams from Florida and Maryland refused to play with Bunny on the field and it became clear that the local police would be unlikely to protect the Massachusetts boys from an angry mob if Bunny played, the youngsters were forced to choose between a championship they could likely win, even without Bunny, and loyalty to their teammate.  Captain Tony voted to abandon the playoffs, and his team members agreed without a single dissent.

    For the locals, it wasn’t enough that the Massachusetts team had withdrawn. Refusing to honor their segregationist rules made the team a target, so the boys left town in the middle of the night, ferried to an abandoned railroad station in cars driven by sympathizers who left quickly, fearing for their own safety. A train headed north made an unscheduled stop and eventually deposited the young athletes in Springfield, where news of the incident had preceded their arrival. A huge cheering crowd greeted them with more fanfare and celebration than would have followed an actual victory.  Many years later one team member remarked on the quirks of history: “If we had gone ahead without Bunny, even if we had won the championship, no one would ever have heard of us.” Protesting the national organization’s indifference to racism, Springfield’s American Legion Post 21 disbanded its team in 1935. It was not revived until 2010.

    Andersen’s picture book, illustrated by Gerald Purnell, received many plaudits when it was published in 2013 for reviving the story of Tony and Bunny, though I wonder if the subject matter isn’t too sophisticated for the Winnie-the-Pooh set, who know little of valets, the intricacies of regional sports competitions, or Jim Crow laws (as distinct from slavery or the bullying little ones are likely to be warned about today). A novella for older children, replete with more detail and fuller explanations as well as the imagined thoughts and feelings of the characters, the sights and sounds of each location, the thrill of train travel, the joy of playing sports and so on would be a more appropriate vehicle. Andersen is reportedly working on such a project, and I hope it finds a willing publisher.

    Although Andersen makes Bunny the focus of his book, the story is not told from his point of view, and, given the current topicality of "white privilege," we should note that Tony King is the actual hero of the tale.  He is, in Biblical parlance, "a righteous man."  Tony and his white teammates have choices; Bunny has none, and his experience in Gastonia would shape his life.  Both Tony and Bunny remained in Western Massachusetts, but Tony just celebrated his 102nd birthday; Bunny would die at 50. Like many Holocaust victims and World War II vets, he never once told his children about his humiliating and terrifying encounter with race hatred and segregation in North Carolina. Referring to a newspaper picture her mother had kept of the crowd greeting the returning players, Bunny’s daughter Linda Taliaferro said, “Our grandparents were in that picture, and they had such anxious looks on their faces. I asked my mother why that was. ‘They didn’t know if their son would be coming home dead or alive,’” was the answer.  

    Throughout his life Bunny continued to exhibit extraordinary skill in sports and played on some Triple A teams after high school, but he turned down college scholarships, including one to Dartmouth, married a local girl, raised six children and worked at the Springfield Armory and then a tire company.  As an African-American athlete he faced dubious alternatives in the late 1930’s. He could have accepted recruitment to a college team from which he would inevitably have been cut anytime the team ventured south of the Mason-Dixon line.  (Ivy League teams notoriously sidestepped the scruples of 15-year-old Tony King.)  He could have joined the poorly paid, roustabout, and ultimately frustrating world of the Negro Leagues or served in a segregated Armed Forces.  Jackie Robinson, two years Bunny's junior, would do all of these things and, in 1947, break the color barrier in major league baseball, but this was hardly a foregone conclusion.

    The 1930’s were a progressive period fraught with inconsistencies in which Jesse Owens, fresh from his triumphs in the 1936 Berlin Olympics, was feted with a ticker tape parade down Broadway and, that same night, refused a hotel room in New York City; a time when Hattie McDaniel, awarded an Oscar (the first and last black actress so honored until Whoopi Goldberg in 1990) for her role as Mammy in Gone with the Wind, was compelled to sit at a segregated table in the back of the auditorium during the ceremony.  Even the lives of celebrated African-Americans, living outside the South, were rife with racist booby traps.

    That Bunny chose to stay in Springfield, where he was known, loved, and celebrated, is understandable, but clearly the suppression of so much talent took a toll. He died in 1967, the same year Thurgood Marshall was elevated to the Supreme Court and a few years after major Civil Rights legislation was passed by Congress—all too late for the Springfield athlete. Tony King and other former team members carried his casket; the summer of '34 had forged lifelong bonds.  King would live to see Barak Obama serve two terms as President and his 1934 team remembered and honored in the first decades of the 21st Century.  But it is probably Langston Hughes who, in 1951, evoked the ethos of Bunny’s story most poignantly:

    What happens to a dream deferred?

    Does it dry up

    like a raisin in the sun?

    Or fester like a sore—

    And then run?

    Does it stink like rotten meat?

    Or crust and sugar over—

    like a syrupy sweet?

    Maybe it just sags

    like a heavy load.

    Or does it explode?

    Jackie Robinson did not outlive Bunny Taliaferro by many years.  Robinson lived his dream while Taliaferro shelved his, but both suffered under the burden of the era's unspeakable racism, and neither saw a ripe old age.

  • The moon still showed above the house across the street.  A light snow had fallen on Christmas Eve, and heading toward the covered bridge was pure Currier & Ives.  Large gray clouds tinged with pink moved slowly across the sky.  Up at the fairgrounds the sun rose over the eastern mountains, streaking the clouds in front with coral and gold.  Silhouettes of bare trees stood before them, creating broad stripes of luminous color that alternated with black.  A fox had been foraging before dawn and dropped a piece of her Christmas dinner for Pepper to find and carry home.  By now, patches of sky between the clouds had turned an intense, brilliant blue.

    C&I

  • Swallowtail.larvae
     Be kind to these guys (above) because they turn into these guys… DL-16.butterfly

     

    Swallowtail larvae love parsley and, if you grow parsley, will eat it to the ground.  Solution: plant a special parsley bed away from the one you use for your kitchen and gently place any swallowtail larvae you find in the wrong patch onto the parsley in their designated patch.  (They also love dill…)  Currently there are five swallowtail caterpillars in this particular patch.  Two are visible in the photo.  They are as beautiful as the butterflies they turn into, but a lot more destructive!  Be a good neighbor and plant extra parsley for them.  You will be rewarded with floating, fluttering, black and yellow striped beauty throughout your summer.

  •  We spent our first Halloween at Mill Brook several years ago, and to mark the occasion, we purchased three pumpkins, one large and two small, and placed them by the front porch.  It poured rain, so no tricker-or-treaters came; they weren’t used to having us there for that holiday anyway, but the pumpkins remained until Thanksgiving, after which we carried them out to the septic mound for the benefit of any animals partial to pumpkin.  Before we left for home, I dug out the Christmas wreath Kathy Hallenbeck made for us last year and hung it on the front door.

                On the drive home, I pondered the firm divide we Americans create between Christmas and Thanksgiving, between our fall holidays and our winter ones.  Only on the day after Thanksgiving does Christmas shopping officially begin, and we castigate merchants as crass and thoughtless who jump the gun by putting out Christmas decorations before we’ve finished roasting our turkeys and devouring pumpkin pies.  Franklin Roosevelt tried to move Thanksgiving forward one week in order to boost the economy by allowing more days for Christmas shopping, testimony to our distaste for doing anything Christmas before Thanksgiving.

                Why this rigidity?  In Europe, autumn flows naturally into winter.  In October, fresh game with cranberry sauce is featured on menus, butchers hang dressed rabbits and pheasants outside their shops, and slowly fruit breads and Christmas stollen appear in bakery windows.  (“Backbeginn November” is the chapter in my German cookbook that covers these holiday breads.)  The aroma of sugar-coated nuts and roasting chestnuts fills town squares; outdoor markets sell springerle forms, cookie cutters, and crèche figures.  Giant lighted stars, strung above the main shopping streets, announce Advent: the bakeries now feature Christmas cookies, and churches fill up with candle-laden fir trees or other seasonal decorations.  The transition has been seamless.

                We Americans explain the line we draw between Thanksgiving and Christmas on the grounds that we have Thanksgiving and Europeans do not, but I think the real answer lies in the fact that our American fall traditions are all uniquely American: the squash and pumpkins, the turkeys, the brilliant autumn leaves, the scarecrows and cornstalks, the history of the Pilgrims, and the big deal we make out of Halloween—all American.  Our Christmas customs, on the other hand—decorated trees, holly, yule logs, mistletoe, carols, glass ornaments, roasted birds or roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, fruitcake and other confections—all derive, in one way or another, from Europe.  Even Santa Claus, uniquely American, especially when advertising Coke (!) started out as Saint Nicholas.  We don’t shift seasons as much as we shift cultures and continents, and the traditionalists among us don’t do it lightly.

    Nellundertree